In December 2019 Stefanos Chrysafis moved in Paris to work for the Canadian designer Vejas Kruszewski. The gender-fluid label Vejas lounched in 2016, characterized by the conceptual designs, ecological materials, sustainable ethics and earned the title of the youngest LVMH Prize winner ever.
PARIS,MARCH 5, 2020
by CHIOMA NNADI
Designer Vejas Kruszewski moved to Paris two years ago and is clearly starting to think more like a local. Literal signs of the city showed up in his work this season: For starters, the squiggly textured motif on his slim-fit crewneck sweaters was a nod to vermiculation, the wavy lines resembling worm tracks that you find on masonry all over Paris.
More broadly speaking, the new Vejas look rests on three legendary pillars of high fashion: Madame Grès, Gilbert Adrian, and Azzedine Alaïa. The Canadian designer is known for his androgynous, workwear-inspired shapes, though he’s radically refining that silhouette with soft draping techniques to echo his heroes, an aesthetic he calls “1980s Grecian.” The wrapped and twisted jersey miniskirts and crop tops in shades of beige and sky blue brought classical codes to a fresh new place; ditto for his asymmetric jersey day dress in fire-engine red, a color that was everywhere for fall.
Vejas’s modern approach to tailoring is not to be sniffed at either. Spun from sustainable hemp, the carpenter-style trousers were a great alternative to classic jeans and worked well alongside cropped blousons that were neatly gathered at the waist. Of the outerwear options, the hooded and caped trench coat was a standout, towing the line between cool and chic.
As he continues to hone his design smarts, Kruszewski is also pondering new ways to lessen his impact on the environment. As well as sourcing hemp, FSC-certified Tencel, and organic cotton, he’s now adding mulesing-free wool to his repertoire (the harmful practice of mulesing sheep to prevent parasitic infection involves removing wool-bearing skin).